Written by Karen Watts
Photography by Chris Watts and Amy Dench
We are often asked this question by summer visitors and the answer is, this year, a resounding NO it is not. For the last two years there has been much talk about trying to turn Rodos into a 12 month tourist destination but those of us who live here have always been some what sceptical about the practical reality of this. However this year we have noticed more small hotels open, more non-Greek visitors on the streets, more rental cars on the Rhodes (sic) and more restaurants open up here on the north of the island.
Rodos is a bit like Marmite – you either love it or hate it. Some people come to visit and leave underwhelmed and never return. Many others, like myself, fall in love the moment they get off the plane and it becomes almost an obsession to return again and again whilst dreaming of maybe one day actually living here.
This week saw friends from Nottingham who fall into this category, returning to the island for their 5th visit, though this is their first time in the winter and they loved it. We first met Mark, Amy & Josh in 2014 when we photographed their wedding at Kalithea Springs http://www.kallitheasprings.gr/
They have the Rodos Bug and they have it bad they made the journey via Athens – the only way to reach the island in the winter months for the time being – to discover what the island is like in the “off” season.
Josh is a remarkable young man who, at the age of 8, told me over dinner at Ateya last Wednesday night that when he grew up he wanted to “Travel the world to rescue endangered species” and more astonishingly, that he loved burgers but hated McDonalds. A long time ago and in another life I taught kids Healthy Eating classes in central London, so to hear these words from the mouth of an 8 year old was an absolute joy. Consequently we promised Josh a trip to The Walk Inn in the Old Town where we assured him he would have the best burger ever. Apart from mine, of course!
The Walk Inn is a fabulous eaterie in the heart of Rhodes Old Town, facebook page , specialising in burgers and pizzas (but actually serving a huge selection of more than that) this family run establishment has heart, soul and good food in ample quantities. Run and owned by siblings George, Popi and Manni with incredible staff, more on them in a few lines, The Walk Inn is open all year round, has live music several nights a week, is decorated with a certain warm rock’n’roll ambience and they hang our work on their walls.
On Friday night, in blustering winds, we made our way into The Walk Inn and were greeted by Sophia, No 1 waiter and all round great human being with a huge heart of gold, who, when I mentioned about Josh’s burger desire, sat down and explained to him that he could pick something from the menu or that he could invent his own burger style. Which is exactly what he did. And so was invented, with the help of fabulous Maro in the kitchen, the Josh Burger. We all opted for burgers except Chris who had a pizza, the Greek musicians arrived about 10pm, the place filled up with locals of all nationalities and before we all knew it, it was 2am and time to get Josh home to his hotel and bed. A thoroughly fabulous evening for all.
Needless to say, this Nottingham family will be back on the island sooner rather than later.
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Last night, as you sometimes do, we fancied Chinese. As I believe I have mentioned before the Chinese “restaurants” on the south of the island are best avoided and are not open in the winter anyway. The only half decent Chinese in Rhodes Town closed up last year. Generally when we get a craving for Chinese food I make it myself, but on the recommendation of our friend Emily we decided to retry Kanton in Kremasti. Chris & I had eaten here in the winter of 2012 and had an average meal but on returning in the summer of 2013 we had, what can only be described as a dreadful experience all round.
But the craving was there and Em had enthused about it so we thought it only fair to give it another go.
This is not gourmet Chinese food of the likes you will find in major cities but it is the best on Rodos. Both the restaurant and kitchen have had a make over, the staff were super efficient and friendly, the menu had been pared down from its 2012 version, always a good thing in my opinion, and honestly stated what foods were pre-frozen. Happily, the food was really rather good. It also fulfilled the international adage that says if Chinese people are eating there it can’t be all bad. It certainly wasn’t.
We shared a couple of Tempura Prawns which, while not your classic Tempura Batter, were yummy. Chris followed with Sizzling Duck, Egg Fried Rice and Mixed Vegetables – as he always does this was total over ordering, but then he makes up for it by eating the rest when we get home. His duck was delicious. I opted for Peking Duck with Pancakes, again, not your classical Peking Duck but they do make the pancakes themselves and, the duck, if not as crispy as I prefer tasted great. I had two half bottles of Sake and Chris had a beer. The bill came to 42 euros, which we felt was very reasonable and I am happy to recommend and urge anyone with a Chinese food craving while on the island to try it. And they are open all year round.
Feasts From Afar is the next Kalliopi Kitchen blog! CLICK HERE.
