Words by Karen Watts
Photography by Chris Watts
There is a long and twisted history of Italians in the Dodecanese. This is especially visible on Rhodes where Italian architecture from the first half of the last century features all over Rhodes. The casino was built by the Italians, as was the National Theatre and The Aquarium to mention a few. They created the diving board in the sea at Elli Beach, the military airstrip at Kalathos, Kallithea Spa and the so called Mussolini House, though history tells us that he never stayed there, it was built for the Commander of the Dodecanese from 1936 – 1940, Cesare Maria De Vecchi.
They were also responsible for much restoration of war damaged buildings in the Old Town like the Grandmaster’s Palace.
You can read more here:
And then there is the food…
Apart from people with gluten issues, more on this “problem” in a minute, who doesn’t love good Italian food? At its best it combines fabulous flavours with comfort food, leaving the diner with a full belly and a big smile.
In Rhodes Town two of my favourite restaurants are Italian. They both have great chefs and wonderful staff but they are totally different experiences.
Mediterraneo is the small and very friendly child of Marco and Diana Michielon. They have a base menu with most of the Italian classics plus a daily changing specials menu. Everything is cooked to order and the pasta is homemade. The pizzas are large and crisp based, in fact every dish from starter to salad as well as the main courses is large, though if you’re a small eater, Diana will, if asked nicely, make slightly smaller portions. Last night my companion ordered the Caprese salad which was crisp, fresh and superbly dressed. I chose the Carbonara spaghetti made with crispy Guanciale. Diana’s Carbonara is one of my all time favourites, but also come here for the lightness of any of Marco’s cream sauces, the ever changing daily risottos, Marco’s Mushroom Risotto is to die for – you can taste the love – the many vegetarian options and of course the homemade Pannacotta.
Dog and child friendly… a note comes with the specials asking people to be kind to Leo, who is both vaccinated and friendly, he gets panic attacks if left alone in their apartment … there are just 20 seats inside but outside they have a long rectangular colourful courtyard with lots of plants and feel good signage that has much more seating for the summer months.
Eating at Mediterraneo is like being in your Italian aunt’s house – bustle and banter, joyful voices and wonderful smells and lots of smiles and laughter.
The house white wine is perfectly palatable as is the complimentary limoncello before you leave.
Griva 104, Ródos, Greece
2241 076076
If eating at Mediterraneo is like being at your Italian aunt’s then Casa Il Borgo is like eating in a beautiful elegant high end restaurant in Milano. Minimally but stylishly conceived with blonde wood furniture and floors with two sides of almost floor to ceiling windows and boasting a large show kitchen it is light, bright and airy.
The menu is relatively small (compared with many other Rhodes Town restaurants) but exceptionally good. It also states that any of its dishes can be prepared with gluten free ingredients.
Casa Il Borgo was recommended to me by a close friend who claimed it to be the best Italian she had ever had. After my first visit, I was inclined to agree. On that occasion I had possibly the best Mushroom Risotto I have ever tasted.
The pizza dough is phenomenal and, like the space, is light and deliciously soft and airy. On the current menu in the Bread section, try the Bastoncitti with Garlic Butter, but try not to eat it all at once as these are addictive but also perfect for mopping up the wonderful sauces that accompany your main course. At lunch last week my companion ordered Spaghetti with Gamberi. He is the second person I have taken there to order this and both people have almost literally licked their plates clean – the freshest prawns with a lightly spiced tomato sauce. I had Pizza Con Funghi and was not disappointed. The pizzas are huge and would have fed two of me. Over the last months I have eaten here on quite a few occasions and every single time has been a taste revelation. The Ravioli with Beef is melt in the mouth gorgeous as is the Gnocci with Chicken. There are many vegetarian and quite a few vegan options. The wine list is comprehensive, try the local Paraga from Appollona. The service is super friendly and efficient and of course you will get the complimentary Limoncello.
Amerikis, 111 & Eystathioy Str.
2241033981
Two totally different but equally amazing in their own ways, dedicated Italian eateries here in Rhodes Town that I return to again and again for the food and for the vibe.
Much nearer to VLK if you fancy Italian is Broccolino in Lindos which I have reviewed previously and while it’s been a really long time since I’ve been down to Lindos I am hopefully reliably informed that it is still great.
Despite the history quite a few Italians live year round in Rhodes Town and Lindos, many are second or third generation. Even more Italians flock to Lindos for the whole summer to work and play and for the month of August the coves and caves of Kallithea are literally covered with them.
In this century the culinary influences of our Italian neighbours make for very happy eating.
Karen
Rhodes Town
Kalliopi Kitchen: notes
If you have never been to Rhodes, and this is your first time at VLK, it could be worth reading this blog from the beginning, it might even make you laugh and hopefully give you some ideas. There is some beautiful imagery and some great recipes that might interest you too.
The Kalliopi Kitchen blogs are all lovingly collected HERE – the most recent ones are always the first displayed. So if you wish to read them in order go to the bottom of that page, navigate back to the first pages – and enjoy!
